This has been a tricky one to navigate!
On one hand, I’ve wanted to have a more historically-inspired wardrobe – but on the other hand, I’m acutely aware of just how full my wardrobe is at the moment.

I’m not a person taken by the fast-fashion of today.
My clothes (aside from underwear, t-shirts, and perhaps a small handful of other items) have been purchased or received second-hand … and most of my clothes are worn until they cannot be worn anymore.

The funny twist here, is that I’ve also received lots of “second-hand” fabric over the years! My stash is HUGE and most of it is stuff I’ve not had to pay for!
So you could say that I’m in a double-predicament!

Before detailing my process, I’d invite you to have a look at my Pinterest Board over at https://www.pinterest.com/24Washington/victorian-suit-jackets/

(here’s a preview)

Requirements

• I wanted the jacket to be versatile – if possible, I wanted it to be of a style that could go with a full skirt or a pair of jeans (asking too much?).
• Colour: neutral
• Style: similar to the top of a riding habit.
  • Front – to be ‘cut away’.
  • Back – to have a tail of sorts – pleated in such a way as to fit over a possible future bustle, but also lay flat-ish if worn without one.
• Ornamentation: Minimal. Cording could be added, but of a similar colour to the base fabric

I decided to use the Double-Breasted Cutaway Jacket drafting instruction from the 1897 Superlative System of Cutting Ladies’ Garments for my mock-up and modify aesthetics from that.